The technical term for wood flooring is parquetry, defined as a mosaic of wood used for ornamental flooring (French parqueterie, from parquet.).

Materials contrasting in color and grain, such as oak, walnut, cherry, lime, pine, maple etc. are employed; and in the more expensive kinds the richly coloured mahogany and sometimes other tropical hardwoods are also used. The patterns of parquet flooring are entirely geometrical and angular— squares, triangles, lozenges. In parade rooms of Late Baroque Northern Italian, German and Austrian palaces, curved and irregular forms were also employed, as at Schloss Benrath near Dusseldorf, La Solitude near Stuttgart and Belvedere, Vienna.

There are three main classes of parquetry in use: solid parquet, veneers and laminates. We at Urban Hardwood Floors use only "true" wood flooring materials.

  * Solid parquet as the name suggests, is solid wood, the standard thickness of each board is typically 1.5 cm or more, this enables the wooden floor to be heavily sanded numerous times over its lifetime.
    * Veneers are a layer of solid wood, normally 5 mm (referred to as the 'wear' layer) in thickness attached to a base of cheaper wood or plywood, this enables a floor to be sanded and finished using conventional techniques, and can be repaired by light re-sanding.
    * Laminates are the cheapest form, consisting of a faux-wood image applied to a cheap base such as particle board and a clear protective layer applied on top, laminates are prone to chipping and are unable to be repaired.

Boards generally fit together with a tongue and groove, having consequently the pattern alike on both sides.

Wooden floors can be installed in a number of configurations. In a floating floor configuration, a layer of underlay is placed on top of the existing floor (for noise and heat insulation), the boards are then placed on top, locking together using the tongues and grooves, the weight of the combined boards holds them in place. Over time as the wood reacts to moisture in the environment, cracks are more prone to appear compared to permanently fixing the floor to the subfloor.

To attach the floor more permanently boards can be either fixed using nails (driven through the tongue at an angle of roughly 35 degrees), or attached using a water or organic solvent based glue if the subfloor is unsuitable for nails, such as concrete.